THE ALI AKDURU JOURNALHAIR, CARE & EVERYDAY RITUALS

EXPERT ADVICE

The art of
caring for hair.

From the first wash to the final touch: a considered guide to your hair, your scalp and the small habits that make up your routine.

Salon perspective by Ali Akduru
With references from dermatology and hair-care research

Inside this editionHaircut, color & styling questions
Dimensional blonde hair from Ali Akduru’s existing portfolio
COLOR, TEXTURE & THE CARE BETWEEN APPOINTMENTS

Choosing your shampoo

How do I choose the right shampoo for my hair?

Choose a shampoo for your scalp needs and hair type, taking recent color services into account. Adjust washing frequency to oiliness and texture instead of following one schedule for everyone.

How should my hair type affect my washing routine?

Choose a shampoo formulated for your hair type. Oily scalps and fine, straight hair may need more frequent cleansing than dry, thick or curly hair. There is no single washing schedule for everyone.

When should I use an anti-dandruff shampoo?

For dandruff, choose an anti-dandruff shampoo and follow its label. A regular cosmetic shampoo and a medicated dandruff shampoo serve different purposes.

Is one ingredient claim enough to choose a shampoo?

Consider your scalp, your hair texture and recent color services when choosing a product. Ask about the complete routine rather than assuming one ingredient claim makes a shampoo right for you.

Sources & further readingAAD: Shampoo choice and washing by hair type

Conditioner after every shampoo

Should I use conditioner after every shampoo?

Yes. Conditioner is recommended after every shampoo for both colored and uncolored hair. Choose the amount and placement for your texture, focusing on the ends for fine or straight hair.

Does uncolored hair need conditioner too?

Dermatologists recommend conditioner after each shampoo. This applies to uncolored hair as well as color-treated hair; choose the formula and amount for your texture.

Should I apply conditioner to my scalp or ends?

For fine or straight hair, concentrate rinse-out conditioner on the ends. Dry or curly hair may benefit from application through the lengths. Do not assume every conditioner should be massaged into the scalp.

Should I rinse out my conditioner?

Rinse-out conditioners and leave-in conditioners have different directions. Follow the label, and use scalp-specific products only as directed.

Sources & further readingAAD: Conditioning after shampooApplying conditioner by hair type

Everyday hair care

What should my everyday hair-care routine include?

Choose products for your hair type, shampoo the scalp and condition after each wash. Detangle gently from the ends and absorb moisture without rubbing.

Where should I apply shampoo?

Choose products for your hair type and wash according to how oily or dirty your scalp becomes. Concentrate shampoo on the scalp rather than scrubbing the lengths.

How should I condition and detangle my hair?

Condition after every shampoo, whether your hair is color-treated or uncolored. Fine or straight hair may need conditioner mainly on the ends; dry or curly hair may need it through the lengths. Detangle gently with a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends.

How should I towel-dry my hair?

Absorb moisture with a towel or T-shirt instead of rubbing. Wet hair needs gentle handling; avoid pulling through tangles.

Sources & further readingAAD: Tips for healthy hair

Tangles & detangling

How can I detangle my hair without pulling?

Use a suitable conditioner or detangler and work through small sections from the ends upward. Support each section with your hand to avoid tugging at the roots.

Illustrative scalp cleansing, detangling and heat styling scenes
Scalp to ends: a gentle approach. Illustrative imagery.

What can make knots easier to manage?

A leave-in conditioner or detangler can make knots easier to manage. Use a formula suited to your hair and follow its directions.

Where should I start when detangling?

Work through the ends first, then gradually move upward. Support the section with your hand instead of tugging at the roots.

Should I detangle my hair wet or dry?

Curly hair can be detangled gently with conditioner in the shower. With straight hair, allow it to dry a little before gently combing.

Sources & further readingCleveland Clinic: Gentle brushing and detangling

Argan oil

Can argan oil help dry or frizzy hair?

A small amount of argan oil can be a finishing option for hair that remains dry or frizzy after conditioning. Apply sparingly to the lengths according to the product directions; it is not a treatment for hair loss.

When might argan oil help my hair?

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests a little oil, such as argan oil, when hair remains dry or frizzy after conditioning. Think of it as a cosmetic finishing step.

How much argan oil should I use?

Choose a hair product suited to your texture and follow its label. Start sparingly on dry or frizzy lengths; fine hair can feel weighed down by rich products.

Does argan oil treat hair loss or scalp conditions?

This guidance is about softness and manageability. It is not evidence that argan oil regrows hair or treats scalp disease.

Sources & further readingAAD: Leave-in conditioner and argan oil guidance

Hair oils: what the evidence says

Do all hair oils offer the same benefits?

No. Different oils and formulations have different effects, and findings about one ingredient do not apply to every product. Choose for your hair texture and avoid treating cosmetic oils as scalp treatments.

What does research say about coconut oil?

A laboratory study published in 2003 found reduced protein loss from hair fibers treated with coconut oil compared with mineral and sunflower oils. This was a hair-fiber finding, not proof of hair regrowth.

Can I expect the same result from every hair oil?

One finding about one oil does not establish that every oil or oil blend has the same benefit. A product formulation and your hair texture both matter.

Can hair oil replace treatment for a scalp problem?

Do not use a cosmetic hair oil as a substitute for assessment or treatment of persistent dandruff or hair loss.

Sources & further readingRele & Mohile, 2003 · Journal of Cosmetic Science · Hair-fiber study

Hair masks & deep conditioning

What can a hair mask do for my hair?

Conditioning products can improve softness and combability and reduce friction. Choose a mask for your hair type and follow its directions; a smoother feel does not mean all damage has been permanently reversed.

What benefits can conditioning products offer?

Conditioning products can reduce friction and improve softness and combability. A mask is a product format; the word alone does not establish its effectiveness.

How long should I leave a hair mask on?

Choose a formula intended for your hair type and use the stated amount, contact time and rinsing instructions. Do not assume leaving a rinse-out mask overnight improves the result.

Can a mask permanently reverse hair damage?

A smoother feel is not evidence of new hair growth or permanent reversal of all damage. Avoid treating a conditioning mask as a medical treatment for hair loss.

Sources & further readingShampoo and Conditioners, 2015 · Dermatology review

Color-treated hair

How should I care for color-treated hair at home?

Choose conditioning products suited to your texture, including a leave-in conditioner if needed. Ask Ali to tailor a home-care and maintenance plan to your color and hair condition.

Can leave-in conditioner help color-treated hair?

Color-treated hair may benefit from a leave-in conditioner alongside a rinse-out conditioner. Choose a formula suited to your texture.

How should I apply leave-in conditioner?

Apply leave-in conditioner according to its directions, concentrating on the hair rather than the scalp. Start with a small amount; finer hair usually needs a lighter touch.

What should I discuss at my next color appointment?

Bring your current product list and tell Ali about recent color or chemical services. Discuss a home-care and maintenance plan for your particular color and hair condition.

Sources & further readingAAD: Leave-in conditioner tips

Heat styling & protection

How can I reduce damage from heat styling?

Limit hot-tool use, choose low or medium heat and use a heat-protection product as directed. Check the label: not every leave-in conditioner offers heat protection.

Which heat setting should I use?

Limit hot-tool use and choose low or medium heat settings. Excessive heat can damage every hair type.

Does every leave-in conditioner protect against heat?

Use a heat-protection product as directed. Not every leave-in conditioner protects against heat; look for that claim on the packaging.

Can Ali help me simplify my styling routine?

Ask Ali to demonstrate a finish you can repeat at home, with a styling routine suited to your texture and the tools you already use.

Sources & further readingAAD: Healthy hair and heat protection

Flat iron damage

How can I reduce damage from a flat iron?

Use a conventional flat iron only on dry hair at a low or medium setting. Limit repeated passes and frequent use, and follow the directions on your heat-protection product.

Should I use a flat iron on wet hair?

Use a conventional flat iron only on dry hair and choose a low or medium setting. Avoid holding it in one spot or repeatedly working over the same section.

How can I limit heat exposure?

Frequent heat styling can weaken hair and lead to breakage. Use heat protection as directed and leave time between hot-tool sessions.

Does heat protection prevent all damage?

Heat protection does not make unlimited heat safe. If hair feels brittle or keeps breaking, reduce hot-tool use and discuss the condition of your hair before another chemical service.

Sources & further readingAAD: Habits that can damage hair

Wet hair & overnight care

Should I dry my hair before going to bed?

Allow your hair to dry before sleeping when possible. Avoid tight styles on damp hair and reduce rubbing and pulling, because wet strands need gentle handling.

Is air-drying the same as sleeping with wet hair?

Letting hair air-dry is different from sleeping on it while wet or pulling it into a tight wet bun. Wet strands are more vulnerable to mechanical damage.

How should I prepare damp hair for bed?

Allow your hair to dry before sleeping when possible. Avoid tight styles on damp hair and reduce rubbing and pulling.

Can wet hair cause a cold or infection?

Wet hair itself does not cause a cold. Prolonged dampness may favor microbial growth, but wet hair does not mean you will automatically develop an infection.

Sources & further readingCleveland Clinic: Wet hair and overnight risks

Dandruff & scalp care

How should I care for a flaky or itchy scalp?

Dryness, dandruff and product irritation can all cause flakes, but they may need different care. For dandruff, use an anti-dandruff shampoo as directed; persistent flaking or severe itching needs a dermatologist’s assessment.

Which shampoo should I choose for dandruff?

For dandruff, look for an anti-dandruff shampoo with an active ingredient such as ketoconazole, selenium sulfide or zinc pyrithione. Follow the product label, including how long to leave it on before rinsing.

How should I adjust dandruff care to my hair type?

Straight hair and oily scalps may need more frequent washing. Curly or coily hair may tolerate dandruff shampoo about once a week. Focus it on the scalp to help avoid drying the lengths.

Is a dry scalp the same as dandruff?

Dry skin and dandruff can both flake, but they may need different care. A gentle, non-medicated shampoo may help simple dryness; dandruff often needs a targeted active ingredient.

Can stress explain flakes at the back of my head?

Stress can trigger seborrheic dermatitis flares in some people. Itchy flakes at the back of the head do not, by their location alone, establish stress as the cause. Persistent patches, sores or patchy hair loss need medical assessment.

Can shampoo cause itching or irritation?

A shampoo that irritates your scalp, a product allergy, or incompletely rinsed shampoo can cause itching and flaking that resembles dandruff. Stop a product that causes irritation and seek advice if symptoms persist.

When should I see a dermatologist about dandruff?

If dandruff persists despite appropriate shampoo use, or your scalp is severely itchy, see a board-certified dermatologist. Flaking can also occur with other scalp conditions. A salon consultation does not replace a medical diagnosis.

Sources & further readingAAD: How to treat dandruffDry scalp and similar conditionsStress and seborrheic dermatitis triggersProduct irritation and scalp itching

Sweat, workouts & tied-back hair

How should I care for my scalp after a workout?

Let your scalp and nape dry and adjust cleansing to sweat, oil and your hair type. Loosen tight hairstyles, and seek advice if itching or flaking persists.

Can sweating trigger scalp irritation?

The American Academy of Dermatology lists sweating as a possible seborrheic dermatitis trigger. Salt from sweat may irritate susceptible skin. This does not mean every sweaty scalp will develop dandruff.

What should I do after exercising?

Let your scalp and the nape of your neck dry, and adapt cleansing to sweat, oil and your hair type. Follow your dermatologist’s washing schedule if you have a scalp condition. Persistent itching or flaking should not simply be blamed on sweat.

Can tight ponytails or buns damage my hair?

Repeatedly pulling hair into tight ponytails or buns can cause breakage and traction-related hair loss. This is different from dandruff. Choose a comfortable, loose style and avoid pulling damp hair tightly against the scalp.

Sources & further readingAAD: Sweat and seborrheic dermatitis triggersTight styles and hair damage

Hair loss & thinning

What should I do if my hair is thinning?

Start with an assessment by a board-certified dermatologist to identify the cause. In the meantime, handle your hair gently and avoid tight styles and excessive heat.

Who should assess my hair loss?

Hair loss has many possible causes. A board-certified dermatologist can assess the pattern and help identify the cause before recommending treatment.

How can I handle fragile hair more gently?

Use gentle shampoo and conditioner, limit heat and avoid tightly pulled hairstyles. Persistent tension can cause traction alopecia.

Should I take supplements for hair growth?

Do not assume a hair-growth vitamin is the answer. Excess amounts of some nutrients can worsen hair loss; discuss supplements and any need for testing with a clinician.

Sources & further readingAAD: Managing hair loss

ALI’S PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

Thirty years.
A gentler touch.

After 30 years behind the chair, Ali’s advice is to give everyday handling as much attention as the finished look. He recommends gently drying the scalp after washing, particularly before bed or before tying the hair back. If using a dryer, keep the heat comfortable and the airflow moving.

When a knot becomes painful, pause. Use a suitable conditioner or detangler, work in small sections and begin at the ends. Ask for help with difficult tangles instead of forcing a brush through them.

These are Ali’s salon recommendations. Air-drying alone does not establish the cause of scalp pain; persistent pain, redness, sores or patchy hair loss needs dermatological assessment.

Ali Akduru

THE READING ROOM

Behind the advice.

The articles draw on patient guidance from the American Academy of Dermatology and Cleveland Clinic. Research adds context, with limits worth understanding.

Heat, drying and the strength of the evidence

A laboratory study found greater surface damage at higher drying temperatures. Drying method and duration also mattered; this does not establish that air-drying causes hair loss or that one method suits everyone.

Lee et al., 2011 · Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time

A case report describes hair-shaft abnormalities after hot ironing wet hair. It supports avoiding the practice but cannot establish how often damage occurs.

Hot ironing on wet hair · 2011 · Case report

Updated October 5, 2026. General education and salon perspective, not a personalized medical diagnosis.